When I started investigating, I thought if I was going to go to all that effort, I might make something a bit more modern. Well, I'm always building things and I looked at building an old-school-kook box Tom Blake type surfboard as a project. To go to all of that effort of humping a longboard overseas doesn't really enthuse me that much. I figured I am lucky to live on the Gold Coast and between Noosa and Byron there’s a lot of very good surf breaks. I'm 6'3" and 120 kilos so I would need a big board to travel with which would just be a pain in the bum. So yeah, it's just fantastic, I surf there most of the time because it’s very predictable, there's always a wave of some kind. It's not crowded in winter, we get glassy light offshore winds down the valley and in the afternoons there’s a little bit more of a northerly build up and away you go. It’s tiring when you've got to paddle all the way back to the point, so after about four or five times of those you know you have had a great day. When we have our normal swells in winter I’ve had waves from the point right across to Lacey’s, which has to be a 400 meter ride. I surf at Currumbin Alley on the Gold Coast most of the time. Even when I’ve been injured surfing, I would never say I’d had a bad surf, It's always been a great experience.ĭo you have any particular wave that stands out as being your most memorable wave? When I’m surfing I don't think about anything else really, I just love the feeling and the energy of catching a wave. I find surfing is just a great way to unwind. I just love being on the ocean, I love fishing and I love scuba diving. We spent a lot of time at the beach and our family had a launch that we would spend our holidays on and the water was always near by. Like most places in New Zealand where I grew up was not far from the coast, we lived 8 miles away. I reckon it was about 9'6 to start with and I think it ended up with about a 7 foot Dunlop pig. My dad thought it was easier to cut a metre out of the guts of it so he doweled it together with some broomstick handles and fiberglassed a ribbon around the middle. It took two of us to carry it down the beach. The first stand up surfboard that I remember using was a Dunlop pig-shaped board, which I later on inherited.
See more at: Swaylocksģ.I grew up in New Zealand and learned to surf with good family friends who owned a sports shop, so we all had foamies. You get a big number (cubic inches) that you divide by 60.02 to convert to liters. Is there an easier way based on dims? yes.its all an estimation due to the differences in foil, rails, outline.but this is a fairly consistent measure.You can calculate approx volume by:ġ/2 length x width x thickness +(10x evry inch over 6') Take out board, add measured amounts of water to get to higher line = volume? You'll need a fairly large tank.this would be an exacting method, but couldn't imagine putting in this much effort. water in bathtub, mark water level on side of tub, add board, submerge board (how with out adding your hands to equation), draw another line. How do I approximate the volume of the old board? Do I put 10 gal. I want a shorter board with less rocker but keep volume the same, roughly, for ease of paddling and speed in small to medium surf.
I want to make or buy a new board, and I like the volume of a rocket pig fish I made.
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